Two days where American music was born — Beale Street neon, smoke-ring barbecue, and the Mississippi rolling past it all.

Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, and a church rebuilt inside the museum. Start where soul started.
A chipped-chopped pork sandwich with slaw on top, eaten at a formica counter. This is the whole point of the drive.
The tiny room where Elvis, Johnny Cash, and Jerry Lee Lewis cut their first records. The tour guides are musicians themselves.
Neon, brass on the corners, and blues spilling out of every doorway. Follow your ears.
